Par Margaret Kemp
And it works! Arriving, to a warm welcome, in Dover Street, a few minutes walk from Piccadilly, Fortnum & Mason and The Ritz, London, we’re delighted to discover that Mayfair’s dining and cocktail bar hot spot combines chic and daring with glitzy ritzy décor, live music, DJ’s and vibrant atmosphere.
The walls are punctuated with contemporary art, the tables are not too close for comfort - the space created so you can watch the beautiful people arrive, eat, dance on the tabletops, and depart - until very late. “Every evening’s a party”, says Lily the server who comes from Marseille via Ecole Hôtelier, Nikki Beach, Bagatelle etc. And, Lily and the enthusiastic équipe know the ingredients of every dish, working together as Team Bagatelle.
From the kitchen the genial
Rocco Seminara (ex- Le Martinez, Cannes, Hôtel de Paris, Monte Carlo, 20 years with Alain Ducasse, and time spent at Byblos, Saint Tropez where we loved his cuisine) sends out exquisite dishes such as: Barbajuans comme a Monaco: Gamberoni en carpaccio et citron d’Oman: Parmigiana and mozzarella de Campanie: Tartare de Boeuf, poutargue d’oeuf bio:
And if you love caviar try Bagatelle Caviar Selection from Kaviari’s wild Iranian collection, Kristal or Beluga? A vous de choisir cheri (e).
Consider also, pomme de terre farcie, foie gras poêlé, sauce albufera: excellent warm focaccia and baguette basket, rare in London! Coquille Saint-Jacques sautées, panais confit, jus de barbe truffée: Salade Riviera au petit épeautre, avocat, radiccio: Poulet fermier, en croute de sel (magnifique) Huitres Carlingford, pesto de basilic, poudred’olives Taggiasche : Saint-Pierre cuit meunière, pousses épinards, sublime sauce aux caviars
Divine desserts are created by Pastry Chef Manon Santini (who is also Bagatelle Group’s Head Pastry Chef) include Chocolate Pizza (in 2019 Manon won “World Champion of Pizza Dessert”) and Manon’s delicious signature pizza dessert combining chocolate, hazelnuts and seasonal fruits transforming the much loved Italian classic into a haute cuisine work of art. There’s also Tarte Tropezienne, Fleur d’airelles, cremeux au citron vert, pistachio praline and Tablette dorée au chocolat au lait, ganache Rooibos.
From the wine list (there’s an extensive cellar/cave below stairs) choose, say, Pascal Jolivet’s fresh Sancerre Sauvage and/or Château Pichon Comtesse.
Yes, Bagatelle is a super delicious success, almost like being in St. Tropez! I suggest to Aymeric Clémente that he sprinkles some sand on the floor! He laughs! “The story of Bagatelle Group, and the French Art de Vivre, continues to be written”, he adds. “And when are you opening in Paris”, I enquire. “When we find the right lieu”, he winks.
See you there. Book well ahead.
Cocktails about £18 - Starters about £16 - Mains about £12 - Sides about £12 - Deserts about £11.
34, Dover Street, London, W1S 4NG - T : +44 023 972 7000
Closed Monday & Tuesday.
Dinner only and Saturday Brunch from 12 until 17hrs.
https://bagatelle.com/venues/london/menu
Photos : Plats : lateef.photography Portrait du chef : Pierre Lucet Penato.
